May 31, Caleta Morgane

We got up at 8am this morning, quickly tidied up the boxes with fruit and veg (every day they have to be brought in from the cockpit and secured tightly with rope so they don’t fall), the guys pulled up the anchor while I was tidying up the kitchen and we left. I was well rested after another warm, comfortable night on the couch, snug under a warm sleeping bag. I have spent the last few nights in the living room because of my antibiotics schedule. I have to take them at 8am, 4pm and 12am. I try to stay up as late as possible but I usually get sleepy much earlier than that and so does everybody else. Which means I have to set an alarm that goes off at 12am which means that if I’d slept in a bed I would have to wake the person sleeping next to me. Having drunk water all day and also just before going to sleep doesn’t help much either since I have to get up often and use the bathroom. Hence the ‘sleeping on the couch’ decision. I thought it would be a bad idea, since I had tried it before and it had felt very uncomfortable. But switching sides to the longer one has proven the golden trick. I sleep like a baby. An added bonus is getting out of bed as soon as Ian is up instead of lying around, wasting time and feeling lazy (and consequently bad about myself).
We had great luck with the weather today in terms of sailing conditions. Although it was gloomy and slightly rainy the wind was favourable. It still wasn’t ideal, meaning it would come from the side or even better from behind but it was strong enough, allowing us to tack and move swiftly at between 4 and 5.5kts/h. We had set ourselves a goal of only 12-13miles depending on how our tacking progressed but once having reached that goal we thought we’d keep going for another few miles towards another caleta. It was still early afternoon and most importantly the wind was in our favor and we were having a great sail.
We were enjoying not only a great sailing day but the weather was also on our side. Although it was gloomy and wet it was relatively warm, especially compared to yesterday when the guys said it was extremely cold. I didn’t think much of it but it must have been so since even Ian was cold. The heater was on, my feet were cold but then again they are always cold. Back to the weather subject though…
I sat in the cockpit looking at the scenery thinking how different it becomes when the weather is gloomy. The grey clouds are hanging low over the mountains covering not just the peaks but also half the mountain as well. The canals become these mystical, spooky, uninviting yet enchanting places. The occasional shipwreck helps intensify the general mood. Which was the case today.
I was trying to have a nap and I probably succeeded in it since I even had a little dream when Mario came down urging me to go out and see the shipwreck. ‘It is a really big one!’ he said convincingly. And it really was. I went out and asked Ian where the shipwreck was and he indicated to his right. There it was to our starboard side. A big steam ship, covered in rust, but still very much above water. If we had understood the guidebook correctly it is one of two steam ships that had crashed in the shallow water of that area in 1889, or more than 120 years ago. Impressive!
I felt an urge to go on board and explore. Who knows what I would have found. Maybe a treasure…or some skeletons! The urge wasn’t too strong though knowing I would feel uncomfortable exploring the dark, damp areas of the wreck while my imagination was running wild with monsters and ghosts, thus having to really push myself to go further. I know that there is no danger whatsoever but tell that to my imagination.
The ship was the second one that crashed which probably means it crashed over the remains of the first one. The bottom of the sea of that area is probably littered with remains. Exciting to think about it. As we passed it we could clearly see the two musts (back and front), its chimney, now very rusty, broken and tilted to one side, as well as the cabin area – all excellently preserved! Fascinating. I wonder what it was transporting and where it was going…just think about it! The people on board, each with their story, its cargo, the activity that took place on board, the conversations that people had, the sailing. Looking at it resting above the water like that I don’t think anybody actually died when it crashed. They all probably managed to sail in the emergency boats.
We made it to the caleta relatively early and again just anchored. It is too calm and the shore lines are too much of a fuss to bother with them unnecessarily. As soon as we stopped Mario again suggested we played backgammon and again he had won most games. He did reveal his secret though…it is all to do with probability. But that is all I am going to say about it since he asked me not to share his secret with anybody. He only shared it with us because he was getting bored of not having any competition and we were getting tired of always losing.
Ian has cooked a wonderful dinner, consisting of lentil fritters with tomato sauce, boiled potatoes, and Mario has prepared a delightfully looking salad. So let’s eat!

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