May 13, Puerto Fontaine

We left motoring, it was quiet and calm, almost no wind. We saw a whale that went right by us going in the opposite direction. I hardly remember the details after so long but with help from the guys I managed to put a few memories together, thus forming a decent description. The reason I don’t remember it all that well is because we only saw it from a distance. It wasn’t like the second whale we saw that glided a mere 20m away from the boat. Mario took a picture of this third encounter, proudly pointing out that he also caught the two birds flying over it at the time.
While we were going through Paso Victoria, we started at the sun coming through the clouds. Here is what Liam has to say about it. “As usual light and its absence makes the difference; weather clouds and precipitation mix with light and dark and the result is a cosmos of contrast and sweeping colours. Going through Paso Victoria we looked back at Seno Union, a spectacular mix of mountain silhouettes , black islands and yellow misty light pouring out of hole, like golden coins in the shadowy black clouds…”
I enjoy having Liam’s thoughts in my blog as I believe it gives a more complete picture of the events. Having only me describing them is awfully subjective. Having Liam’s view on things gives you a more objective picture. I remember that sunshine moment. At time like this you believe in God. You think to yourself that this is divine light sent from above. There is no other explanation for it. It is so glorious. So perfect and powerful.
We sailed on, the sun slowly setting behind us. At some point it became so beautiful, we all jumped out onto the deck, taking photos. Eternalizing the moment. At time like this I feel closest to the boys, love is all around. You are a better person who loves everybody around them. Loves life and the people around. Beautiful. Blissful happiness.
We first took photos of the three of us at the back of the boat, trying to take in all the light coming from the sunset but it didn’t work very well. Nevertheless we laughed about it heartily. We then decided the moment was so beautiful that we thought we’d take pictures of all of us including the captain. So we quickly ran to the front of the boat and experimented with the light. Again, it didn’t work very well but we had a blast doing it.
Shortly after this Ian called me back on deck shouting ‘Dolphins!’ You should have seen me running up to front of the boat. And there they were! Happily swimming and jumping around. It was so great, and all of us stood at the front of the boat tracing the three dolphins with our eyes, going along and in front of the boat. They were totally showing off and every time we shouted in excitement they jumped out of the water. They would swim ahead of the boat and then wait for us to get there before they started jumping again. Then at some point another three dolphins joined the bunch and the whole group showed off they synchronized swimming skills. Funny! And fabulous. I am also adding Liam’s view on things.
‘And then the dolphins. We saw them in the distance on our port side so we rushed up to the bow and I stood on the prow right on the anchor hanging my body over the rail. But the dolphins, 3 of them waited, they could feel if not hear our excitement. They swam, crossing and twisting and at times synchronized, other times their lightning paths braiding in and across the bow wave. We were yelling and calling with excitement! They doubled back, you could see them, they liked the attention – they did this for probably ten minutes until finally they distanced themselves. Maybe they called to others to tell them because suddenly you saw three more fins moving toward the three that had been playing, giving a show about the boat. Then four came spouting and arching their grey and white backs, they came to flit around once more under the bow wave of the Persimmon. And they were off with the sinking sun and the sad black mountains.”
We lost the dolphins for a while and slowly headed to our anchorage spot only to find out that they had followed us. They hung out around the boat while we were stuck. About that…
I was in the bathroom when I heard a thump. We had hit something. I quickly ran out to find out what has happened and it turned out that we had sailed into a shallow spot and hit a rock. We not only hit the rock but we also got stuck on it. The rock wasn’t indicated on the map as we approached the anchorage and it got awfully shallow all of a sudden. It was getting dark and it was hard to see. Ian tried to get us out but we seemed to be rather stuck. The boys spent some time on deck, tried to get us out but after a while it became obvious that we were not going anywhere until high tide so we settled down and waited. Ian urged us to prepare dinner as soon as possible before the boat started tilting to the side at low tide. That was some dinner we had! The boat tilted soon after we came in and preparing dinner at a 30º angle was an extreme exercise. Mario had a blast that night measuring the angle at which we were tilted. He would do it every two minutes for two hours as if that would help us tilt back and get unstuck. It was 6.30pm when we got stuck and we didn’t get out of there until just before 11pm. Late into the night we could still hear the dolphins flapping around the boat. I wonder what went through their mind…
We finally managed to sail away from that rock, as carefully as possible. And we headed to a safer spot for the night.
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