April 26, Seno Pia

After our stinky stay in Yendegaya we got up at 4.30 am and did 40 nautical miles (roughly 80km) to Seno Pia. The most beautiful stop so far.
It was a good sailing day although a very long one. It is funny how fast it went by though. Maybe because of all the beautiful scenery we enjoyed on the way. We had entered the glacial part of our trip and we observed at least four of them. But that was nothing compared to the magnificence of our anchorage. Before I get to that though I’d like to mention some difficulties we had on the way there. On the entrance of the sleeve that led to the anchorage there was a patch of shallow water stretching from one end to the other. Edgy glacial rocks covering the bottom. The retreating glacier left them there. Ian took control of the steering wheel and carefully tried to make his way forward. Back then our depth meter was still functioning and we could keep a close eye on the depths. We got as close as 3m and we thought we were pushing it a bit when we decided to try a different route. It wasn’t much better but it gave us an extra couple of meters. Slowly inching our way forward we finally made it out of the dangerous area and progressed further up the sleeve into icy waters dotted with floating pieces of ice. Mario and I stood in front of the boat having our Titanic moment when we saw a rather big piece of ice rapidly approaching us. We warned Ian about it but that only seemed to invigorate him further he just grinned and drove right through it. Mario and I were ecstatic, while Liam came out running his face a picture of concern. He thought we’d hit something until we told him what has happened, grins on our faces. We drove closer to the glacier before we turned around and headed to our anchorage for the night. What a beautiful spot it was! Only a couple of kilometers away from the glacier. It was the first thing we saw when we went out. Glorious!
Next day after some leisurely morning activities we went for a hike in the surrounding woods. An easy ten-minute trail was indicated in the guide book and it took us to a decent viewpoint overlooking the bay, the channel behind us and the glacier in all its glory and blueness spread in front of us. We noticed that there weren’t so many ice pieces floating in the water, and attributed it to the current that probably took them away during the night. After a brief stop the boys took off further up the trail, Ian decided he would have an apple instead of climbing higher and I decided to admire the view for a while before I also headed up the hill. By the time I left the spot the guys had already dashed way ahead of me, and despite my calling them I got no answer from them. I followed what looked like a path until I reached a point that looked utterly impassable and I realized I had taken a wrong turn. I went back and this time took the path to the right and in a few minutes I saw the boys perched on a hill. I quickly got up there myself and felt speechless before the panorama that revealed itself. I immediately thought that those extra few minutes up the hill were so worth it. I was happy to see Ian climbing up the hill, it was great for all of us to get together on top of the hill. It was one of those moments that brought people closer. We didn’t miss the opportunity to document it all of course! After a while it was time to go down as it was getting dark and rainy.
We made it back to the dinghy and the guys decided to look for a tree bearing the nameplates of all the yachts that had been there but despite the instructions in the guidebook we couldn’t find it. After a while we gave up on it and went back to the warmth of our yacht. It was dinner time.
We woke up the next day with the idea of making progress towards our next destination. But we only got around the corner from where we had started. We were looking for a fresh water spring to refill our water tanks without having to use jerry cans and when Ian saw one he didn’t hesitate in stopping and making the most of it. So that stream was the end of our grand plan for advancement. We spend the sunny morning (the first of three sunny days we have had so far) refilling our water tanks using a hose directly connected (if that’s the right word to use) to the stream, cleaning the boat, doing laundry, taking showers and generally just enjoying the abundant quantities of fresh water. The weather was lovely, and the close proximity of the glacier and the surrounding mountains made it a memorable day.
I would have liked to spend more time near the spring and under the sun, but Ian decided it was time to go as the low tide was coming and there was a good chance we would get stuck there. So we left beautiful Seno Pia and headed to our next destination that is almost never known beforehand. What followed was equally stunning and one of the best scenery so far. We sailed through Cordillera Darwin which is a series of snow peaks that seem to have come out of a fairytale. I won’t even attempt to describe them as I find myself speechless before them. All I can do is look at them and exclaim ‘Wow!’.
Just before the end of the day we made it safely to a beautiful anchorage surrounded by hills and vegetation. The boys played navy seals, having a blast rowing and tying the shore lines. Mario even went through the trouble of putting a headband on and immersing into the character a 100%. We were doubled-up with laughter when we saw him coming out of the cabin with his blue band tied to his forehead. We had such a blast. In true pirate fashion we even discovered a hidden treasure. Well, maybe not so hidden, and certainly not much of a treasure, but let’s not ruin the romantic story.
I saw something on the shore that looked like a book. There were also some torn ropes and a piece of reddish fabric. I just kept in the spirit of our little navy seals joke and thought it funny to scream ‘Treasure! Treasure!’. The guys didn’t waste any time researching our precious findings and came back with…a damp piece of cardboard, some old rag, and a whole lot of other garbage! Oh well! It was fun while it lasted. While we stood on the deck we heard some strange noise, like a sail flapping behind the hills which only added to our little enchanted island/pirate ship ghost story. It was getting dark; we could hear the wind blowing in the distance; the shore was covered with torn old ropes hanging from lifeless trees; and then a strange noise could be heard not far from us. What would you think?! I was a bit scared.

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